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Eating out
Flora at joy only serves the most up-to-date ingredients
This west London pop-up brings a dose of season-cooked cuisine met
It’s been a while since I first sat on this concrete terrace, gazing at a west London skyline cooked in the sun and cut from concrete. A decade, to be precise, at a time when the area known as Dock Kitchen and Chef Stevie Parle, the new winner of the Young Chef of the Year 2010 Award. How times have changed.
These days, Parle is more of an experienced veteran than a new talent, however, with a multitude of beloved restaurants to his credit, his return to Portobello Dock with Flora in Pop-up Joy is a rare ray of good news.
He is also here today, pruning in his hand, pruning some of the approximately 1,000 gardenias that were once destined for the Hampton Court Flower Show. This has been canceled, but now they are fine in pots that act as breaks between the tables. , the outdoor grill gently smokes and we in the cool shade of the umbrellas. Ladbroke Grove’s vehicular rumble is a long way off.
The menus are downloaded from the phones and the mask is used through all the staff. “It’s about making fun as comfortable as possible,” Parle says along the way. The food is “hyper seasonal”, says the menu, super new too, while creaking in a past of vegetables – cucumber, tomatoes, romesco pepper, spicy rábanos – that howl with past summer vitality, all dragged by a gently salted deer cod tablecloth.
There is a bird salad, with generous pieces of succulent meat, and perverted leaves tossed with a sharp dressing, and pieces of crispy, undeniable but cheerful fried bread. As the sun goes down, we stuff ourselves with the icy rose and dig clams with bursts of guanciale caramel. Juices are for sucking them out of the bowl.
Welsh lobster is charred on the grill, but its center is under-cooked, so it gives flavor to that ozone movement, like waves breaking on the rocks. Leonardo, melted in the flesh, which adds the most subtle of salty whispers. Reminds me how smart it is, this rebel crustacean can be.
A giant chop of red meat, brimming with juice and blessed with the excitement of the grill, has the character of a well-lived life. The slow-cooked borlotti beans, with sublime acidity, are scented with summer herbs. We ended up with a bowl of cherries, plump as Ma Larkin’s chest and just as fruitful. And a strawberry sorbet that’s like an icy summer vacation. Every detail is perfect, from the warmest service to the brilliity of the ingredients and the kitchen. It takes hard paints and skill to make things look so simple I am very satisfied with this place. Really joy.
Flora, about 30 euros consistent with Head, Portobello Dock, 344 Ladbroke Grove, London W10; joyatportobello. co. uk
Drinks: Olly’s new wave wines
As for baked beans, I have a convenience zone. For years, Heinz has ruled my global, and in general, I remain faithful. But rarely does Corale, Duchy Organic or Whole Earth slip into my basket and the difference is palpable, if not when it comes to wine, the price goes beyond the same safe bet as ever for two undeniable reasons: there are thousands of lesser known gems and, secondly, they are offering a sensational price for their money. Besides, they’re so delicious that your feet will twist with joy. It’s time to take the step.
Brancott Estate Marlborough Pinot Grigio 2019 (13. 5%), $ 8. 25, Morrisons – Who would say pinot can be that good? With lush tropical fruits, it is best with spicy dishes.
The Society’s Greek White 2019 (12%), 8. 95, thewinesociety. com. A price for a refreshing and delicately floral triumph of Greece. Try smart wine in the future.
Pinot Gris Vom Kalkstein 2018 (12%), s 11. 25, yapp. co. uk. Groovy, lenient, and I can’t get enough. Perfect peach with a tikka masala bird.
Hidden Spring Chardonnay 2019 (11%), $20, hiddenspring. co. uk Hit Chablis points at similar costs with the effect of a fishing meteorite.
Dardell Organic Red 2019 (14%), from 8. 99, majestic. co. uk. My wine of the week. Full of fruity finesse and a tempting spicy touch. A bottled wonder.
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Edited through Associated Newspapers Ltd
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