Why Marseille? Macron’s holiday (and five reasons to go)

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Marseille’s Old Port is noticeed at sunset. French President Emmanuel Macron has chosen to spend his holidays in the city. Gerard Julien / AFP Getty Images

Marseille’s Old Port is noticeed at sunset. French President Emmanuel Macron has chosen to spend his holidays in the city. Gerard Julien / AFP Getty Images

PARIS – When Emmanuel Macron’s team announced that the president would take off for a few days in August, he learned that the position would remain a state secret.

So far discretion. A few days after the government disbanded for the annual recess, a resident of a Tony district in Marseille saw one who, she says, looked strangely like Brigitte Macron, the first lady, getting out of an official-looking car after an even more official one. . -show of procession.

A tweet was posted, and on Sunday, the whole of France knew not only where the presidential couple spent their holidays, but also the exact direction of Macron’s afternoon jog (along the meadow beach, in a blouse of Olympique de Marseille football with his calling on the back. ).

The reasons for this selection were numerous, starting with the fact that Macron had no interest in hiring the expensive official holiday apartment for former President Nicolas Sarkozy in Fort Bregancon; and that his own space in Le Touquet, in northern France, was too complicated to obtain. Politically, this made sense, because the president would stick to his own decree to his ministers to remain in the country, and a few hours from Paris, summer vacation.

In 2015, the New York Times rated Marseille as a favorite destination, and the rest of the world agreed, while tourism is booming.

The selection was made in Marseille, where the couple would remain in a villa ceded through a local prefect, preferably located at the end of a gently secured cul-de-sac through their detail. But the Marseille national team was more than a matter of convenience: it was a primary vote of confidence in a city with a developing reputation as an ideal weekend, and a brilliant contrast in Paris.

Relaxed where Paris can be tense, sunny where Paris is occasionally wet, Marseille has lost compared to the capital due to its long-standing, and frankly justified, reputation for corrupt politics and gang violence. The heady combination of the charm of the Marseille Riviera, Tammany Hall’s antics and Kalashnikov scooter photo shoots provided the backdrop to Netflix’s first French series, which carries the city’s call (reviews are, say, combined, but look at them here).

However, his portrayal as the neglected and abandoned cousin of Paris is fortunately outdated. For more than five years, under a taxpayer cash flatner and under the direction of conservative Mayor Jean-Claude Gaudin, local legend and last of politicians. “Barons ” of France – Marseille has cleaned up, renovated its port of the old town, created a magnificent museum of the promenade and has been quietly established as the weekend n. 1 in France for chic and silly decoration (bohemian) Array as well as a place of pilgrimage of main football, thanks to Olympique de Marseille, Macron’s favorite team.

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In 2005, the New York Times called Marseille a favourite destination, and the rest of the world seemed to agree, as tourism is booming: from 2 million visitors a year in 2013, when it was named European Capital of Culture, to five million in 2016. Driven by the influx of urban visitors, many of whom come from Paris, Marseille’s hotel and gastronomic scene is flourishing. Array with the merit that the maximum of the offer is quality and affordable. The city maintains its exclusive spirit, cheerful accessory and urban character, however, it temporarily becomes aware of its own freshness.

Here are some smart reasons to follow in Macron’s footsteps and make a stopover in Marseille, before it becomes a victim of its own popularity and is invaded, as Barcelona is, a common comparison.

Getting to Marseille from Paris is so simple that it’s like cheating. Since 2001, a TGV line connects directly from the Gare du Nord in Paris to the Gare Saint Charles de Marseille in 3 hours, a little time to get excited. The terrace of the station is an impressive opening, over the old town and the port area. It is also imaginable to fly directly to Marseille from London, and with a quick stopover from Berlin. Lovely hotels nestled in winding streets tend to live up to foreign and English-speaking criteria. (A modern is the Mama Shelter, in a quirky but well-located neighborhood. There is also an elegant bar). Public transport by bus or subway is functional, and although taxi drivers may be rough or worse, it was imaginable to order an Uber on the last stopover of POLITICO in the city before this year.

It’s almost a cliché, but in this case, the one that deserves its iconic status. The coves of Marseille and its surroundings, turquoise coves, flanked by steep limestone or dolomite walls, are a worldwide charm for several reasons. To succeed in an isolated component of the Mediterranean after a strong walk through the forests, place a towel on a rock and immerse yourself in the clear, bloodless seawater. The coves are a short bus ride from the city, but there is one thing: the Malmousque district is within walking distance of the harbour and has its own small cove, with rock-edge fishing huts, white stone and a perfectly blue sea. Look at the locals and learn: take a sports bath last morning, break a beer and lie on the rocks in the sun.

Forget the days when watching locals argue with the local accessory was the ultimate productive entertainment. Marseille now has one of the most impressive museums in France, at least architecturally: the MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations), perched on the opening of the old port, and woven with a medieval castle whose upper component can be explored through a series of walkways. It is worth making a stopover just for the eye, and Marseille has much more to offer, adding the “Friche de los angeles Belle de Mai”: an old tobacco production site that was taken by artists after its closure in the 1990s, since it was transformed into a flexible cultural center with a gigantic rooftop terrace where you can watch the sunset with a cocktail. Port will be offering shops.

If we tend to cafes and places to eat unpretentiously (without looking at the harbour area), it is difficult to make a bad meal in Marseille, and some are exceptional. Lunch in a café du Panier, a labyrinth of streets on the east side of the port; Moroccan vendors’ snacks at the Christmas market behind the Old Port; Dine in a place to eat fish like La Poisonnerie or in an elegant Italian city center such as La Cantinetta: the premium is almost with new ingredients and Mediterranean flavors. Another delight is to eat overlooking one of the Calanques, as in the Castle overlooking The Beach of Sormiou. There you can see Mayor Gaudin himself, sharing a gigantic source of seafood with friends.

Take a look at the press reports on crime in Marseille just five years ago and it’s easy to be horrified: stabbings, gun attacks and settlements between rival gangs in the North Quarter, plus small thefts and drug-related attacks Violence is not so unusual that a local socialist senator, Samia Ghali, called the army in 2012 so that if the maximum bloodshed took place in housing projects Array and not in central Marseille, were unpleasant, especially when they were related to episodes such as a garbage strike that poisoned the city in 2010. However, also in this sense, the city is changing. Crime in general fell for 4 consecutive years between 2012 and 2016, with robberies and attacks falling by 60. 5% during the period, according to police statistics. However, homicides remain high, with 29 gang-related murders in 2016.

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